3. Windows & Doors Archives - Hammer & Hand

3. WINDOWS & DOORS

Manny Coria — Wed, 04 Sep 2024 09:23:45 +0000

Rough openings are inherently dangerous spots on a building, like big holes in the hull of a ship. So it is vital to flash them well and install windows and doors in an airtight manner that also manages moisture and thermal transfer. Our preferred method outlined here – fluid applied flashing – is guided by three truths:

1. Windows will leak. Not all of them, but over a whole building, it’s a matter of when, not if. We therefore need to detail our rough openings so that when a window leaks, the water can drain out harmlessly. (Note: this is why we place the air seal at the inside edge of the window, or door, assembly, to allow water to drain outboard of that seal.)

2. Origami is hard. The conventional way of flashing a window with papers and tapes depends on dozens of steps being performed perfectly every time: careful folds and precise manipulation of less-than-forgiving materials in the field. Simple mistakes, like reverse lapping, can be catastrophic to the assembly but can be covered up by subsequent layers of material, so checking work thoroughly can be impossible. Now multiply these risks by the number of windows on a building and you will understand why window installations can be anxiety inducing.

Fluid applied flashing, by contrast, is more simple to apply in a few steps, and quality control is easy; if the applied layer is thick enough to be opaque, then it is thick enough to do its job. As long as proper materials are used, one fluid applied layer integrates seamlessly with the next, eliminating the risk of reverse lapping (except where the fluid applied system integrates with building paper). And unlike tapes that often require dry conditions for proper adhesion, many fluid applied flashing products are actually easier to apply on wet materials, a very common situation on Pacific Northwest construction sites. We can all sleep well at night.

3. Flashings should be vapor permeable. If flashings are not vapor permeable then moisture can build up behind them and cause rot. The high vapor permeability of fluid applied flashing ensures that construction moisture and seasonal water vapor migrating through the wall assembly does not accumulate behind the flashing and can readily dry.

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3.1 NEW WINDOW INSTALLATION

Manny Coria — Fri, 06 Sep 2024 02:26:30 +0000

Router or sand the rough opening (RO) to make clean edges for applying fluid flashing.
Pass over outer edges with sand paper to get rid of any inconsistencies.
ROs should be 1” larger than window dimensions, both width and height. If space requirements are not met, square or fix before continuing.

Slope the sill using beveled siding or a wedge.
Apply Joint & Seam Filler to all joints and voids larger than 1/4” that are to be covered in FastFlash.
Ensure that all nails are set, apply pink Joint & Seam Filler and tool into place.

Apply FastFlash to sill, extending 9” out from the RO to either side.
Take care not to FastFlash too far below the RO because the transition strip will become embedded on contact and the water-resistive barrier (WRB) will not be able to slip underneath.
Recommended: spread FastFlash 2” down from the bottom of the RO.

SureFlash Installation:

Install transition sheet.
Must extend down from sill at least 4” farther than FastFlash to adequately lap over WRB to be installed later.

FastFlash around the rest of the RO and tool over top edges of transition strip to avoid reverse lapping.

Provide complete, level support for windows, where framing allows, by installing plastic or decay-resistant wood shims.
Use horseshoe shims to hold window flange off of the sheathing so water can drain if the window fails.
RECOMMENDED: 1/16 or 1/8” horseshoe shims.

Insert window in RO and fasten according to manufacturer’s specifications.

Apply Joint & Seam Filler to head and side flanges and tool. For special cases where flanges must be taped for warranty purposes seek additional guidance for suitable alternative.
NEVER seal the sill.

Interior View:

Insert backer rod.

Apply sealant on top of the backer rod and tool into place (see Sealant Joints section).

Slide WRB under transition strip.

Apply WRB around window.

Complete WRB face, lapped.
Make sure WRB is lapped over the built-in flashing at the top of the window and taped.

Install trim.

Note: See alternate rain screen head flashing detail in section 4.2 Top of Window.

Cut a slit in the WRB, fold up, and use tape to hold the flap out of the way while the head flashing is installed.
Attach head flashing.

Apply Joint & Seam Filler to the top of the back leg of the head flashing.
Tool Join & Seam Filler into place.

Fold WRB flap back down and tape the slit to prevent water intrusion.

Attach siding.
There should be a 1/4” gap between the bottom of the sill trim and the siding underneath for expansion and contraction.

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3.2 WINDOW RETROFIT

Manny Coria — Fri, 06 Sep 2024 14:37:06 +0000

Existing conditions to be retrofitted.

Carefully remove existing trim and try to salvage for use after new window is installed.

Remove existing window.
Adjust framing as necessary to make opening square and allow for 1/2” of space around window frame.
If adding a sloped sill, be sure to account for the height of the sloped sill in addition to the 1/2” of space on each side of the window casing.

Apply Joint & Seam Filler to corners, intersections, and edges of opening.
Tool into place.

Apply FastFlash around inside of opening and extend out as far as possible from opening on face of sheathing.

Lift up any existing building paper and continue FastFlash out as far as possible.

When possible, bring FastFlash out over the top of siding for continuous lapping (shown with window installed).

Use shims to leave a space between the bottom flange and building frame to allow drainage in case of window failure.
1/16” to 1/8” horseshoe shims are recommended.

Install window in RO and fasten per manufacturer specifications.

Bead and tool Joint & Seam Filler along top window flange to prevent water intrusion.
Optional (pictured): Apply Joint & Seam Filler to jambs as well, but NEVER to sill.

Install head flashing to protect the trim.

Complete the window retrofit by fitting trim and caulking around edges where the trim meets the siding on the sides, but NEVER the bottom.
Kerf bottom of sill trim with a 3/16” drip edge.

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3.3 WINDOW BUCK IN A MASONRY WALL

Manny Coria — Sat, 07 Sep 2024 21:49:17 +0000

Rough Opening.

Apply Joint & Seam Filler to the opening where the buck will be installed.

Screw window buck into masonry opening.

Use Joint & Seam Filler to seal around the installed window buck.
Also apply to corners and seams where the pieces of the buck come together.

FastFlash the buck from the inside edge of the sill to the building face.
Extend FastFlash out from opening as wide as the trim to be installed.

Install Window in FastFlashed RO.

Interior View:

Insert properly sized backer rod, taking care not to puncture or damage it.

AirDam over the backer rod and tool the joint.

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3.4 DOOR INSTALLATION

sproutbox — Sun, 08 Sep 2024 13:07:54 +0000

Router the RO to make clean edges for applying liquid flashing.
Pass over outer edges with sand paper to get rid of any inconsistencies.
ROs should be 1” larger than door width dimensions and 1/2” larger than height.
Make sure sill is flat and level.
Make sure opening is square and plumb.

Apply Joint & Seam Filler to all joints to be covered in FastFlash.
Ensure that all nails are set, apply Joint & Seam Filler and tool into place.

Tool Joint & Seam Filler.

L-Metal Installation

Set L-Metal into bed of Joint & Seam Filler.

Apply another bed of Joint & Seam Filler over L-Metal to form a continuous barrier.

Applying FastFlash

Apply FastFlash to sill, extending 9” out from the RO to either side.

When installing a wood door threshold, coat the bottom of the threshold with FastFlash. Alternatively, the height of the rough opening can be sized slightly larger and composite shims can be used to elevate the wood threshold off of the sill.

Install door threshold and sill.
Fasten accordingly to manufacturer’s specifications.

Insert backer rod and sealant between L-Metal and door sill and tool into place.

Note: If the threshold is subject to moisture, the door needs to sit on a resilient shim material.

Interior View

Insert properly sized backer rod, taking care not to puncture or damage it.
Make continuous around door frame.

AirDam over the backer rod and tool the joint.

After interior flooring is installed, finish door with trim piece to hide sealant.

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